Melt

December 1, 2013

To elevate macaroni and cheese to an "art," freelance food writers Stiavetti and McCord employ premium ingredients and precise techniques. In their introduction, they specify an exact ratio of pasta to cooking water, illuminate the differences between bechamel and Mornay sauce, provide an excellent cheese primer, and delve into culinary history. Their unusual recipes (e.g., Szechuan-style udon with piave and radicchio) list pasta measurements almost exclusively by weight, call for name-brand cheeses, and suggest wine pairings. VERDICT Like Francine Segan's Pasta Modern: New & Inspired Recipes from Italy, this title will challenge readers to expand their repertoire. It may, however, be too prescriptive for some home cooks.

Copyright 2013 Library Journal, LLC Used with permission.

Starred review from December 1, 2013
Thomas Jefferson knew a classic when he served it. Way back in Monticello times, our First Father of mac and cheese set the stage for every variation thereafter. In fact, a few centuries later, Stiavetti and McCord will create fervor for reinventing this casserole; every one of the more than 80 recipes features the traditional pasta-and-cheese ingredients but with many delicious twists. There's the Greek and the Italian caprese salad and fettuccine Alfredo, all enlivened and rejuvenated with the addition of specific top-notch cheeses. Light dishes appear first, accompanied with mouthwatering color photographs and suggestions for alternate cheeses, wine choices, and pairings with fruits and meats. As the book progresses, heavier fare dominates; who could resist a pumpkin stuffed with fontina, Italian sausage, and macaroni, or beef stroganoff with egg noodles and Moody Blue (cheese, that is)? There's much information to be absorbed, even by the experienced chef or cheesemonger, as the authors introduce us to a modern dairy (in Sebastopol, California) and answer the question, Is blue cheese gluten free? The actual recipe titles get a bit long for handling (since the brand of cheese is incorporated). Otherwise, it's tough to fault this sassy, carbo-loading collection.(Reprinted with permission of Booklist, copyright 2013, American Library Association.)