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Black Dragon River

A Journey Down the Amur River Between Russia and China

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1 of 1 copy available
1 of 1 copy available
“As the book’s subtitle indicates, Mr. Ziegler uses one of the world’s great rivers as a vehicle to pursue this story—and what a vehicle it is. . . . [He] writes beautifully, and with the fervor of a naturalist.” The Wall Street Journal

“The writing is superb . . . a true labour of love, Black Dragon River is a triumph.”The Spectator
Black Dragon River
is a personal journey down one of Asia’s great rivers that reveals the region’s essential history and culture. The world’s ninth largest river, the Amur serves as a large part of the border between Russia and China. As a crossroads for the great empires of Asia, this area offers journalist Dominic Ziegler a lens with which to examine the societies at Europe's only borderland with east Asia. He follows a journey from the river's top to bottom, and weaves the history, ecology and peoples to show a region obsessed with the past—and to show how this region holds a key to the complex and critical relationship between Russia and China today.
 
One of Asia’s mightiest rivers, the Amur is also the most elusive. The terrain it crosses is legendarily difficult to traverse. Near the river’s source, Ziegler travels on horseback from the Mongolian steppe into the taiga, and later he is forced by the river’s impassability to take the Trans-Siberian Railway through the four-hundred-mile valley of water meadows inland. As he voyages deeper into the Amur wilderness, Ziegler also journeys into the history of the peoples and cultures the river’s path has transformed.
 
The known history of the river begins with Genghis Khan and the rise of the Mongolian empire a millennium ago, and the story of the region has been one of aggression and conquest ever since. The modern history of the river is the story of Russia's push across the Eurasian landmass to China. For China, the Amur is a symbol of national humiliation and Western imperial land seizure; to Russia it is a symbol of national regeneration, its New World dreams and eastern prospects. The quest to take the Amur was to be Russia’s route to greatness, replacing an oppressive European identity with a vibrant one that faced the Pacific. Russia launched a grab in 1854 and took from China a chunk of territory equal in size nearly to France and Germany combined. Later, the region was the site for atrocities meted out on the Russian far east in the twentieth century during the Russian civil war and under Stalin.
 
The long shared history on the Amur has conditioned the way China and Russia behave toward each other—and toward the outside world. To understand Putin’s imperial dreams, we must comprehend Russia’s relationship to its far east and how it still shapes the Russian mind. Not only is the Amur a key to Putinism, its history is also embedded in an ongoing clash of empires with the West.
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    • Publisher's Weekly

      September 28, 2015
      One of Asia’s great rivers delineates one of the world’s most colorful backwaters: Russia’s decrepit far-eastern provinces by the Chinese border. In this absorbing travelogue and history, Economist editor Ziegler ranges along the 2,826-mile Amur river from its Mongolian headwaters to its Pacific mouth on what proves to be a grand adventure. He rides horseback through Genghis Khan’s hunting grounds; journeys by train to the moribund cities on the river’s banks, poking around in their post-industrial ruins and still-thriving prisons; and trusts his life to Russian drivers. Along the way he fills in the historical backdrop of Russia’s love-hate relationship with the East. It’s an entertaining and often appalling saga, featuring greedy fur-traders, rough-hewn Cossacks, stolid peasants, and idealistic Decembrist aristocrats in exile. Ziegler lists countless atrocities committed against the region’s native inhabitants by colonizers and visits as many dusty museums paying vainglorious homage to those colonizers. Ziegler happily loses himself in the twisting tributaries of the river and its lore and weaves in gorgeous evocations of the landscape and piquant reportage on the odd and vibrant characters who people it. This is a fascinating portrait of the Amur and its enduring appeal as a symbol of Russia’s tarnished present.

    • Kirkus

      September 15, 2015
      A journalist's account of his travels along the Amur, a spectacular but largely uncelebrated river on the border between Russia and China. The Amur is the ninth largest river in the world. Yet for Economist Asia editor Ziegler, it remained "the longest river [he] had never heard of." As he was to learn, part of the river's mystery stemmed from the numerous name changes it had undergone over time. The Manchus once called it Sahaliyan Ula, or the Black River, while modern Russians call it the Amure, a name they derived from an old Daurian word (Amur) that meant "good peace." In this book, Ziegler chronicles his travels along the length of the Amur from its Mongolian source, the Onon River, to its endpoint 2,826 miles west in the Strait of Tartary. His journey, which he made by horse, Jeep, and train, took him through difficult yet unforgettable landscapes and brought him into contact with a host of intriguing individuals. However, his narrative is far more concerned with setting forth the complex history of both the river and the two nations it separates than with his own impressions of places and people. Ziegler begins his historical account with the story of Genghis Khan, who learned to fish in the Onon. His violence and aggression not only led to the creation of the Mongolian Empire, but also permanently marked that region afterward. More than seven centuries later, Russian czars obsessed with the idea that Russian greatness depended on expanding into China fought and killed their way east while focusing on the Amur as their path to a strategic port in the Pacific. Ziegler is exceptionally knowledgeable about the Amur region and its relationship to the current tensions that define the China-Russia relationship, but more often than not, the historical and political information he offers overwhelms the travel narrative. Rich in history but short on personal reflection, this book is more for Asian history buffs than fans of travel literature.

      COPYRIGHT(2015) Kirkus Reviews, ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.

    • Library Journal

      October 15, 2015

      Ziegler, Asia editor for the Economist, embarks on an exploration of the Amur River, its history, and how it has shaped relations between Russia and China. He weaves the colorful history of the region into his travel narrative along the Amur, the world's ninth-longest river and only Siberian river that runs east into the Pacific. The author's encounters (including a particularly lively episode with an ex-con and prison in Nerchinsk) pepper the equally engaging historical accounts that include characters from Genghis Khan to Joseph Stalin. Ziegler examines an area that is particularly fascinating because of its location between the empires of Russia and China and its development and history being shaped by tsars, Soviets, and the Ming and Qing dynasties, to name but a few. In addition to the maps and index, there is a glossary and an informative bibliography for those spurred to read more about the region. VERDICT Readers curious about the history of Sino-Russian relations and Russia's Eastward expansion will find this account of particular interest.--Louise Feldmann, Colorado State Univ. Lib., Fort Collins

      Copyright 2015 Library Journal, LLC Used with permission.

    • Booklist

      September 15, 2015
      Few Westerners have heard of the Amur River, known to Chinese as the Black Dragon River. Most have trouble locating it on the map, but its watercourse has played a critical role in both ancient and modern worlds. From its Mongolian shores, Genghis Khan rode out to challenge and conquer swaths of the Eurasian landmass. The Amur played a critical role in Russia's eastward expansion into its Siberian territories. Much as the Rio Grande delimits Mexico from the U.S., the Amur today approximates the border between Russia and China, with similar tensions. Traveling via horse, jeep, and the Trans-Siberian Railway, Ziegler follows the Amur's course, from its Mongolian sources to its North Pacific mouth at the Strait of Tartary. Inhabitants of Russian river ports Ziegler visits reflect frontier grit, along with concern for their country's future and unease with their powerful neighbor to the south. Armchair travelers and students of both contemporary Russia and China will find perceptive and sobering insights here.(Reprinted with permission of Booklist, copyright 2015, American Library Association.)

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