Canned

July 5, 2021
“Canned food is enjoying a comeback,” writes London chef Michaels (Rustica) in this tempting collection that makes a delicious case to reconsider the oft-maligned pantry staple as “the star of the show.” In addition to a long shelf life, canned foods are an easy way to save time in the kitchen. He showcases this in an array of recipes that rely on cans of beans, potatoes, spinach, sardines, mango, and squid, to serve as the satisfying foundation for appetizers, stir fries, stews, and desserts. Highlights include griddled canned apricot and grain salad, faux pulled pork with blackened corn (featuring canned jackfruit), banana blossom and coconut curry, and a pumpkin and almond cake that uses canned pumpkin puree. Trusty Spam, meanwhile, makes several appearances (in a Jamaican-inspired ackee and albacore tuna skillet, a succotash, and crunchy spam and cheese fritters in a cola tempura). While Michaels succeeds in elevating tinned food recipes, some dishes tend to feel like a throwback to the ’50s, with their reliance on such ingredients as canned sweet corn, cream of mushroom soup, and fruit packed in syrup. Nevertheless, this is a tantalizing option for harried home cooks looking to put a meal on the table in a fraction of the time.