Balaboosta

Starred review from July 15, 2013
Admony, winner of television’s Chopped and chef/owner of three Manhattan restaurants, offers a multinational smorgasbord of intensely flavorful dishes in this eclectic and appetizing collection. Balaboosta, also the name of one of her restaurants, is Yiddish for the perfect housewife, which Admony redefines as anyone who lives with gusto, relies on instinct, and expresses emotion through food. She sees herself as one in a long line of balaboostas, including her mother and aunt, both of whom heavily influenced a young Admony. The mother of two, she dedicates a chapter to kid food, from Israeli couscous to root veggie chips. She also includes a hodgepodge collection of recipes suitable for dinner parties including corn salad, spicy chicken tagine, Moroccan carrots, and Casablanca catch. Dishes such as zucchini patties and mussels drenched in ouzo provide flavorful options for fast meals while really-not-so-short ribs and overnight turnips are better suited for long, slow cooking. Admony also offers barbecue options such as tangy tabbouleh and healthy choices like whole roasted fish. Her best chapter focuses on Israeli classics from kibbeh soup and chicken with pomegranates and walnuts to falafel and sabih. Restaurant meals, while appealing, are more challenging such as pan-seared duck breast with cider and mustard seeds, and homemade spinach fettucine with ricotta and walnut quenelles. Admony’s offerings are solid and satisfying, and her many fans will find much here to relish.